Radu Morariu (Maftei Vienna) :"Eu si pantofii traim o continua poveste de dragoste - I live a perpetual love-affair with shoes "

Radu Morariu
desen de Juliano Lopes (2012)

Seria interviurilor Claymoor a fost deschisa in luna ianuarie a anului curent  de Radu Morariu reprezentantul Maftei Vienna in Romania. (interviul integral aici). Placerea de a trece pragul showroomului Alexandru Maftei din Cotroceni este dublata intotdeauna de personalitatea deosebita a domnului Morariu, de modul in care esti tratat la MAFTEI ca iubitor de pantof.  In a doua jumatate a anului 2012 pantofii bespoke produsi de unchiul sau Alexandru Maftei au facut obiectul mai multe reportaje de televiziune. 

The Claymoor interview series was opened in January 2012 by Radu Moraru as a representative of Maftei Vienna in Romania (see full interview here). The pleasure of entering the Alexandru Maftei showroom in Cotroceni is always doubled by Mr. Morariu’s personality, by the way in which you are treated at MAFTEI’s as a shoe lover. In the second half of 2012, the bespoke shoes produced by his uncle, Alexander Maftei, have been the subject of several television reports.

Am revenit deci in aceasta luna in cladirea interbelica din strada Dr. Louis Pasteur ce  adaposteste creatiile Alexandru Maftei, la un ceai in compania lui Radu Morariu si vegheati din umbra de fermecatoarea sa sotie Dana, Maftei Vienna fiind o afacere in care sunt implicati aproape toti membrii familiei.
This month I therefore returned to the building dating from the interwar period  which is located on Dr. Louis Pasteur Street and which houses the creations of Alexandru Maftei; I came back here and I had a cup of tea with  Radu Morariu, being quietly and discretely  accompanied by his lovely wife Dana, given that Maftei Vienna is a business in which almost all family members are involved.

Ne revedem dupa aproape un an in care brandul Maftei Vienna a devenit deja sinonim cu pantofii bespoke in Romania . De ce aceasta campanie mediatica?
Here we are after almost a year in which the Maftei Vienna brand has become synonymous with the bespoke shoes in Romania. Why this media campaign?

In primul rand as vrea sa va urez atat dumneavoastra cat si cititorilor bun venit in casa mea. Sunt intotdeauna bucuros sa primesc oaspeti mai ales cand sunt iubitori de pantofi. In al doilea rand nu as numi campanie promovarea brandului, pentru ca campaniile de publicitate in adevaratul sens al cuvantului au fost extem de putine, majoritatea fiind articole sau venite din dorinta de a cunoaste pantoful bespoke. Bineinteles ca am raspuns pozitiv cererii lor, deschiderea noastra in acest caz  fiind maxima. 

Firstly, I would like to wish you and your readers welcome to my house. I am always happy to receive guests especially when they are shoe lovers. Secondly, I would not call this brand promotion “a media campaign”, as real advertising campaigns have been extremely few, most of them being articles or being arisen out of the desire to know the bespoke shoes. Of course, I responded positively to their request with utmost openness

Sir Henry Royce cel care a pus bazele Rolls-Royce spunea odata ca “The quality remains long after the price is forgotten.” Obiectivul nostru la Maftei Romania nu este de a prezenta un pantof cu o eticheta de pret atasata, ci un intreg univers care da nastere pantofului. Povestea din spatele cortinei, timpul de munca din spatele unei cusaturi Goyser sau extraordinare pricepere a tragerii pielii pe calapod pentru o pereche de pantofi fara cusatura; faptul ca forma data de calapod este trupul unui pantof si cusatura sufletul fara de care totul s-ar narui… 

Sir Henry Royce the founder of  Rolls-Royce once said: “The quality remains long after the price is forgotten.” Our goal for Maftei Romania is not to display some shoes with an attached price tag, but to display an entire universe which creates the shoes. The story behind the scenes, the working time necessary for a Goyser stitch or the extraordinary skill of placing the leather on a last to make a seamless shoe, the fact that the shape given by the last is the body of the shoe, and the stitch is the soul without which everything would crumble ... 

Aceste lucruri am incercat sa transmit cititorilor sau privitorilor. Pasiunea, calitatea, traditia si mai ales capacitatea de a genera dintr-o simpla bucata de piele un obiect unic si irepetabil. Pentru ca oricat este de greu de crezut pantoful pe care il facem nu poate fi replicat. Si nu vorbim de patina ci de constructie. Modul cum pielea se intinde sau tensionarea exacta a atei la cusut nu se pot repeta inca odata la fel. Fiecare piele reactioneaza altfel la intregul tratament si se comporta diferit … de accea prieceperea si experienta mesterului sunt  criterii sine qua non…

These are the things I tried to transmit to the readers or viewers: the passion, the quality, the tradition and, above all, the ability to make a unique and unrepeatable item out of a simple piece of leather because, as difficult as it might seem to believe, the shoes we make cannot be replicated. And it is not about the patina, but about the construction. The manner in which the leather is stretched, the exact tension for the sewing threads cannot be repeated in exactly the same way. Each piece of leather reacts differently to the entire treatment and behaves differently ... that’s why the craftsman’s skill and experience are a sine qua non criteria...

Daca va uitati inapoi cum caracterizati acest an sau mai bine zis cum vedeti stilul masculin in prezent?

Looking back, how would you characterize this year or how do you see the men style at present?

Anul care tocmai se va incheia desi a inceput sub auspicii nu foarte bune , fiind perioada de criza economica, s-a dovedit a fi mai bun decat ma asteptam. Motivele nu tin neaparat de cresterea numarului de clienti cat de cantitatea de informatii despre pantoful bespoke ci mai ales de preocuparea pentru stilul propriu al domnilor din Romania. Am primit anul acesta comenzi foarte variate ca stil din toate genurile oxford, derby, loafer, modele din piei exotice sau piei speciale cum ar fi Cordovanul. 

Aceasta diversificare a gustului este un simptom al unei dezvoltari a stilului masculin, dezvoltare care ma bucura nespus. Faptul ca gusturile devin din ce in ce mai rafinate, alegerile fiind cat mai interesante ca si stil, acest lucru constituind pentru noi o provocare continua.

The year that is about to end proved to be better than I had expected despite the fact that it began under not very good auspices due to the economic crisis. The reasons are not necessarily related to the increasing number of customers but rather to the amount of information about the bespoke shoes and to the interest for a personal style of the gentlemen in Romania. This year, we have received extremely varied orders in terms of style from all genres: oxford, derby, loafer or models made of exotic or special leather such as Cordovan. This diversification of taste is a symptom of the men style development, which I rejoiced. Tastes are becoming more and more refined and style choices are more and more interesting, which means a continuous challenge for us. 

Ce nume noi poarta creatii Maftei in 2012?

Who are the new names wearing the Maftei creations in 2012?

Clientii din anii trecuti (pantoful nostru putand trece de la o generatie la alta) cat si clienti noi din lumea politica, businessmani, sportivi arhitecti doctori … In privinta numelor "my lips are sealed". Vedeti dumneavoastra, in momentul in care ma viziteaza clientul vine ca la doctor, discretia fiind implicita. Pentru ca efectiv imi incredinteaza o serie de secrete medicale. Asa incat a le mentiona numele fara acordul lor este exclus. Ce intra la Maftei ramane la Maftei (rade).

The customers we had the previous years (our shoes can pass from one generation to another) as well as the new customers are politicians, businessmen, athletes, architects, doctors … Regarding the names, my lips are sealed . You see, when my client comes to me, it is like a visit to a doctor – discretion is implicit because they actually entrust me with a number of medical secrets. Thus, mentioning their names without their consent is out of the question. What comes to Maftei stays at Maftei (he laughs).

Am vazut recent o pereche foarte frumoasa de ghete negre cu cusatura Goyser. Cat de dificila este aceasta cusatura?

I have recently seen a beautiful pair of black boots with a Goyser stitch. How difficult is this stitch?

Este o cusatura cu un grad mare de dificultate fiind executata numai de cei mai buni artizani. Confera o mare rezistenta talpii pantoful fiind practic indestrictibil. Gheata pe care o mentionati a fost facuta pentru un artist brazilian Juliano Lopes. Pana la urma mi-ati smuls si un nume…

It’s a stitch with a high degree of difficulty as it is executed only by the best craftsmen. It provides high resistance to the sole of the shoe which becomes practically indestructible. The boots you are speaking about were made for a Brazilian artist, Juliano Lopes. So, you’ve made me tell you a name ...

Alexandru Maftei 
 - fondatorul MAFTEI VIENNA -

Apropo de Juliano Lopes am vazut recent trei desene facute de el pe tema shoemakingului. De ce Juliano Lopes si de ce aceasta abordare?

Speaking of Juliano Lopes, I have recently seen three drawings made by him on the subject of shoemaking. Why Juliano Lopes and why this approach?

Raspunsul la ultima intrebare este simplu. Pentru ca am fost fascinat de forma si culoarea din desenele lui, si pentru ca la fel ca unchiul meu este un artist desavarsit, din punctul meu de vedere. In privinta primei intrebari raspunsul comporta o mica dezvoltare. Exista in familia noastra o fibra artistica care ne-a facut sa fim apropiati de artele frumoase, in special de muzica. Desenele domnului Lopes prezinta traditia si arta shoemakingului pe care unchiul meu Alexandru Maftei a ales sa o slujeasca. Este expresia felului in care am dorit sa onoram munca si priceperea unui om care a construit efectiv cu mainile lui un brand de excelenta cunoscut in intreaga lume.

The answer to the last question is simple: because I was fascinated by the shape and the colour of his drawings, and because he is a talented artist just like my uncle, from my point of view. Regarding the first question, the answer involves a little enlargement. There is an artistic fibre in our family which made ​​us be closer to the fine arts, especially music. Mr. Lopes’s drawings show the tradition and the art of shoemaking that my uncle, Alexandru Maftei, chose to serve. It is the expression of the way in which we wanted to honour the work and skill of a man who actually created with his own hands an excellent brand that is known all over the world

Recent stiu ca ati calatorit la Moscova. Cu ce ocazie?

I know you have travelled to Moscow recently. What was the occasion?

Calatoria la Moscova am facut-o impreuna cu unchiul meu pentru a lua masura unor clienti din Rusia. Unchiul meu face des calatorii in Rusia, fiind foarte apreciat in Rusia de aceasta data insotindu-l in calitate de sa zicem “invatacel”. Chiar daca sunt responsabil de Maftei in Romania intodeauna am ce invata de el si sincer este o placere sa calatoresti sa urmaresti un om care este o enciclopedie in materie de pantofi. Chiar acum lucram la niste modele interesante pentru domni din Federatia Rusa.

My uncle and I went on the trip to Moscow to take measures to some customers in Russia. My uncle often goes on trips to Russia, being highly appreciated in this country; this time I accompanied him as a so-called “apprentice”. Even if I am responsible for Maftei in Romania, I always have something to learn from him and frankly it is a pleasure to travel with and to watch a man who is an encyclopaedia in terms of shoes. Right now, we are working on some interesting patterns for certain gentlemen in Russia.

Am vazut  ca de curand site-ul Maftei a cunoscut imbunatiri apreciabile. Carui fapt datoram aceasta schimbare?

Recently Maftei site was considerably improved. To what do we owe this change?

A trecut destul de mult timp de cand site-ul a fost creat si nu mai corespundea cu ceea ce firma reprezinta acum. Noul site este mai aproape de spiritul Maftei, mai aerisit, mai rafinat, mai elegant. Ca o noutate pe site a aparut si o sectiune pentru doamne cu modele pe care produceam mai demult dar pe care nu le popularizazem inca…

It’s been quite a while since the site was created and it did not correspond with what the company is now. The new site is closer to the Maftei spirit; it is more user-friendly, more refined and more elegant. As a novelty on the site, there is now a section for ladies, including models which we have been making for a long time but which we had not advertised before...

Am vazut modele pentru doamne si sunt foarte frumoase. Ce constructie au?

I’ve seen the designs for ladies and they are very beautiful. What is their construction?

Constructia lor poate fi : cusatura manual sau la cuie de lemn. Optiunile pot, ca si in cazul modelelor barbatesti, fi foarte variate, pornind de la piele si ajungand la monograme sau orice altceva doreste doamna. Apreciate sunt in special modelele din piele de strut si pisica de mare. Clientela este momentan restransa fiind alcatuita din doamne deosebite care au nostalgia lucrului manual facut pe comanda si care stiu sa aprecieze incaltamintea la adevarata valoare.

Their construction can be: hand stitch or wooden pegs. As with men models, the options may be very varied, ranging from leather and reaching monograms or whatever the lady wants. Models made of stingray and ostrich leather are the most popular. The clientele is currently restricted, being made up of special ladies who feel nostalgic about custom hand-made items and who can appreciate the true value of such shoes.

Ce planuri aveti pentru 2013?

Plans for 2013?

Glumind cu un prieten ii spuneam recent ca pantofarul si dentistul au acelasi scop. Acela de a vedea pe fata clientului lor un zambet de satisfactie, faptul ca pantoful corespunde sau uneori intrece asteptarile lor. Deci pentru 2013 vreau sa facem cat mai multi domni multumiti. Zambetul si satisfactia lor este garantia ca am facut un lucru de exceptie si totodata este motorul care ma pune zilnic in miscare. 

Joking with a friend, I have told him recently that a shoemaker and a dentist have the same goal: to see a smile of satisfaction on their clients’ face, proving that the shoe meets or sometimes exceeds their expectations. So, for 2013, I want to bring happiness to as many gentlemen as possible. Their smiles and satisfaction guarantee that we did something exceptional; it is also the engine that gets me running every day.

In alta ordine de idei incercam sa ne facem cunoscute traditia  si valorile care ne anima  cat mai multor domni. In 2013 cu ocazia Festivalului George Enescu vom crea un model special care sa celebreze atat festivalul cat si personalitatea lui Richard Wagner,  in 2013 trecand 200 de ani de la nasterea sa. Mai multe detalii despre model insa  nu va pot oferi fiind la stadiul de prototip. Oricum suntem bucurosi ca suntem alaturi de festival si ne pregatim intens  pentru a onora cum se cuvine acest eveniment special care face cinste atat  Bucurestiului cat si Romaniei.

On the other hand, we are trying to make known the tradition and values that inspirit us to as many gentlemen as possible. In 2013, for the George Enescu Festival, we will create a special model to celebrate both the festival and the personality of Richard Wagner, as we will celebrate 200 years from his birth in 2013. Yet, I cannot offer you more details about the model because it is now only in a prototype stage. However, we are happy to be part of the festival and we are preparing intensively to properly honor this special event that is a pride both for Bucharest and for Romania.

Trecand acum intr-un registru mai personal am observat ca aveti o pasiune pentru culoare, intr-un oras, care pana mai ieri, era caracterizat mai mult de tonuri de gri. De unde aceasta preferinta?

Moving now to more personal aspects, I have noticed that you have a passion for colour, in a city that was not long ago dominated by hues of grey. What triggered this preference?

Sincer sa fiu de cand ma stiu am apreciat culoarea. Si acum cand vad o comanda de pantof negru incerc mereu sa il vizualizez si colorat. Inteleg ca negru este pentru pantof clasica, de business insa daca ai cateva perechi negre este momentul sa incerci si ceva colorat. Pentru ca culoarea poate fi un potentator imens pentru pantof si vestimentatie in general. Vedeti in vitrina un pantof maro castaniu model clasic vienez cusut Goyser. Atrage privirea din prima clipa. De ce sa il fac negru si sa ii rapesc din frumusete? La fel in cazul pieilor exotice …Frumusetea lor, mai presus de textura, sta in culoare si reflexii. Este nevoie sa invatam din nou  sa traim colorat. Asta este sigur.

Honestly, I have always loved color  Even now, when I see a black shoe order I always try to visualize it in colors  I understand that black is the color of classic shoes but if you have a number of black business pairs of shoes, it is high time you tried something colorful because color can be a huge booster for shoes and clothing in general. See in the showcase – there is a pair of chestnut brown classic Viennese shoes with a Goyser stitch. It draws your attention from the very first moment. Why make it black and lose its beauty? This is also the case of exotic leather... Its beauty is given by the color and reflections rather than by the texture. We need to learn to live colorfully again. That’s for sure.

Observ ca aveti o afectiune deosebita pentru unchiul dumneavoastra Alexandru Maftei.  Cum l-ati caracteriza in cateva cuvinte?

I notice that you have a great affection for your uncle Alexandru Maftei. How would you describe him in a few words?

Fara Alexandru Maftei nimic din ceea ce vedeti aici nu ar exista. Tot ce tine de pantofii MAFTEI are izvorul in inspiratia, priceperea si daruirea lui.  Inchipuiti-va ca Alexandru Maftei a  venit din Romania comunista la Viena, leaganul marilor pantofari de traditie Austro-Ungara, si a reusit in cativa ani sa se faca cunoscut ca un artizan desavarsit si mai mult, sa se mentina in preferinta clientilor atatia ani. Drumul parcurs de la fondare si pana acum a fost foarte greu, in bransa noastra increderea clientului fiind castigata  numai dupa ani de purtare.  Tehnica sa deosebita, talentul sau ne permit sa putem executa la cele mai complicate cusaturi, unchiul meu fiind un adevarat magician al pantofilor. 

Without Alexandru Maftei nothing you see here would have existed. Everything related to the MAFTEI shoes originates in his inspiration, skill and dedication. Imagine that Alexandru Maftei came from communist Romania to Vienna, the cradle of great shoemakers of Austro-Hungarian tradition, and, after a few years, he became known as an exquisite craftsman and, more than this, he has remained the customers’ favourite all these years. The journey from the beginning until now has been a very difficult one, as in our industry the customer’s confidence is gained only after years of wearing the products. His special technique and his talent allow us to be able to execute the most intricate stitches - my uncle is a true magician of shoes.

Alexandru Maftei finisand  un calapod

Sincer sa fiu cred ca traieste pentru si prin pantofii sai in fiecare pereche creata punand o parte din sufletul lui. Viata lui este MAFTEI, toata ziua petrecand-o in atelier printre calapoade, piei, modele de pantofi, pantofi de proba... Traieste pentru provocari, motorul sau intern fiind alimentat mereu de noile proiecte . Bucuria lui ce mai mare vine cand un client ii cere un pantof deosebit, ceva care sa ii miste rotitele creatiei... Si desi a facut pantofi pentru  sefi de state, pentru Papa Benedict al XVI-lea sau oameni de afaceri din toata Europa a ramas o persoana cu o modestie exemplata dispusa sa daruiasa. A creat scoala de shoemaking si trecut parte din talentul sau si priceperea sa  catre Lucian Maftei si catre toti cei care lucreaza cu el.

 I honestly think that he is living for and through his shoes; every pair created by him has a bit of his soul. His life is MAFTEI, and he spends a whole day in the workshop among lasts, leather, models of shoes, sample shoes... He lives for challenges and his internal engine is always fueled by new projects. His greatest joy comes when a client asks for special shoes, something to make him start his creation... And although he has made shoes for heads of state, for Pope Benedict XVI or for business people across Europe, he remains a person of exemplary modesty who wants to be generous. He created the school of shoemaking and he transmitted part of his talent and skills to Lucian Maftei and to all those who work with him

Personal consider ca fiecare minut petrecut cu el ma imbogateste putand sa descopar cat mai multe din universul shoemakingului. Si sincer sa fiu profit cat de mult...

Personally, I believe that every minute spent with him offers me something, allowing me to discover as many secrets as possible from the universe of the shoemaking. And frankly, I take advantage of it as much as I can...

In vitrina aveti o pereche de pantofi  fara cusatura cu o patina deosebita. Cum se obtin asemenea patine?

You have a pair of seamless shoes with a special patina in the showcase. How can you obtain such patina?

Pantoful despre care vorbiti este o specialitate a Casei noastre: pantof fara cusatura din crust patinat. In Romania crust-ul nu este prea cunoscut desi cu ajutor lui se fac cele mai frumoase patinari. Crust-ul este o piele tabacita dar  care nu este corectata sau vopsita, pastrandu-si aspectul natural. Datorita faptului ca nu este vopsita pielea comporta patinari foarte frumoase, colorarea pielii putandu-se face neuniform ci cu mici diferenta de nuate care dau farmec pantofului. 

The shoes you are talking about are our house specialty: shoes without stitches made of patina crust. In Romania, the crust is not very well known, although it is used to obtain the most beautiful patina. The crust is tanned leather but which is not corrected or painted, thus its natural look being preserved. Because the leather is not painted, it supports very beautiful patina and it can be colored unevenly, with little hue differences which give the shoes that specific charm. 

Experta in patinari este matusa mea Lucia Maftei (n.b. sotia lui Alexandru Maftei). Matusa mea a lucrat cu unchiul meu in toti aceasti ani sprinjinindu-l inca de la inceput. La inceputuri au lucrat amandoi la Rudolf Scheer & Sohne, acum ea fiind  responsabila de firma  cand unchiul meu este plecat in calatorii  si tot ea creeaza patinele noastre. Sincer sa fiu si eu sunt uimit de talentul ei, reusind sa ma uimeasca de fiecare data. 

The expert on patina is my aunt Lucia Maftei (n.b. Alexandru Maftei’s wife). My aunt has worked with my uncle all these years supporting him from the very beginning. At the beginning they both worked at Rudolf Scheer &Sohne; now she is responsible for the company when my uncle goes on trips and she also creates our patina. To be honest, I am amazed by her talent.

Lucia Maftei luand masurile unui client

Vad in fata magazinului doua biciclete foarte cochete. Sunt elemente de décor sau au si intrebuintari practice?

I can see two very chic bicycles in front of your store. Are they elements of decoration or can they actually be used?

(Rade) 100% practice. Trebuie sa marturisesc ca datorita preocuparilor care imi rapesc aproape tot timpul activitatile ce nu implica pantofii sunt foarte putine. In definitv ma consolez cu faptul ca adevaratul lux sta in a putea sa te bucuri de placerile simple ale vietii. Mai mult comoditate decat opulenta. Eu si pantofii traim o continua poveste de dragoste.

Ca sa revin insa la capitolul afterwork, ma  relaxez  plimbandu-ma prin Bucuresti, stand cu prietenii de vorba  si nu in ultimul rand mergand cu bicicleta. Multi spun ca este imposibil sa mergi cu bicicleta prin Bucuresti. Eu insa am mers cu aproape orice se putea merge pornind de la mersul pe jos, cu motocicleta, cu masina sau cu bicicleta. Raman insa nostalgic dupa motocicleta mea BMW desi acum masina imi este indispensabila…

(Laughing) They are 100% practical. I must confess that due to my preoccupations that take almost all my time, the activities that are not related to shoes are very few. In fact I comfort myself thinking that the true luxury lies in being able to enjoy the simple pleasures of life – more coziness than opulence. My shoes and I live a continuous love story. But to return to the “after work” chapter, I relax walking about in Bucharest, chatting with friends and, last but not least, cycling. Many people say it is impossible to ride a bike through Bucharest. But I traveled in almost any way – from walking to traveling by motorbike, by car or by bike. Yet, I feel nostalgic about my BMW motorbike, although the car is indispensable to me now...

Multumesc mult pentru timpul acordat si sper sa ne revedem curand.
Thank you for your time and I hope to see eachother very soon.

Usa mea este mereu deschisa atat pentru dumneavoastra cat si pentru cititorii dvs…

My door will be always open for you and your readers...

                                            

Pozele au fost furnizate de dl. Radu Morariu - MAFTEI VIENNA 

Pictures courtesy of Mr. Radu Morariu